I'm interested in Thai architecture, so I've spent a lot of time looking at what is the center of Thailand's architectural art: Ayutthaya. The old architecture there is still the prototype that connects with the styles of the Rattannakosin period.
It's strange that during the final years of the Ayutthaya period, there was one thing that went against the tide of destruction and death - the Thai arts of architecture and ornament, which experienced a golden age.
Social history tells us that the profession of artisan was among the most secure of all. Traditionally, a highly gifted artisan and his family were well cared for and supported. He did not have to worry about being enslaved or conscripted into the military. So this choice of career was a very popular one, highly competitive and, for that reason, constantly developing.
Ayutthaya's temples testify to this social behavior and th creativity it engengered, and whenever I have a bit of time, I return to them for another look. I've been doing this practically since I was old enough to drive.
It's true that the temples on the island at Ayhutthaya are important, but they've begun to lose their fascination for me of late. The reson for my disenchantment is the restoration work done by the Fine Arts Department which makes them look as if they were built just last month.
In recent years I've become more interested in the temples outside of town, like the ones to the east known as the Ayutthaya Group, and another cluster behind Wat Na Phrameru. Many of these structures were surrounded by grass and weeds taller than a person's head. There were paths leading in to them, negotiable as long as you were willing to risk encounters with snakes and thorny branches.
But two years ago the Fine Arts Department was alloted a budget to repair all the old temples in the area around Ayutthaya. Convenient access routes were put in together with signs indicating the name and history of each wat.
I don't object to repairing these old structures, because I think the work is being done for the same reason that prompted the restoration of temples in the city - to prevent further deterioration.
When I went to see them less than three months after they had been restored, what I couldn't accept was the waythey had degenerated. Prviously, the deterioration had been the work of nature, but now the damage is being inflicted by people who live nearby. Some have been using the temple grounds to play football, and were unconcerned when balls knock bricks off and ancient chedi. Stanless-steel signs identifying the temples were wrenched off, and some temples were littered with scraps od old clothing, plastic bottles, and other trash.
Who can you blame for this? The Fine Arts Department? The Religious Affairs Department? The public? None of hem will accept responsibility because each declares it is not their "job" to watch over the old sites.
There was a similar lack of responsibility during the second destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767: Those responsible for protecting the island capital fled when it came under attack. Soldiers were hesitant to fire big cannons for fear of frightening their families. The city was reduced to ruins.
My purpose here isn't to force anyone into a corner. For every problem there is a solution.
One approach is to look at the way things were done in the past. When someone builf a temple, they also provided money and personnel, in the form of slaves, to care for the temple and its monks.
An analogous system should be used now. In the past, the Religious Affairs Department allowed people to make their homes around the ruins of ancient temples. Now they should require that the people who live in these localities be responsible for looking after and protecting them.
The way they would do this would be decided by the Fine Arts Department, and anyone who didn't feel up to the responsibility could move away. Individuals who performed these duties consistently and well might be given a reduction in rent.
People don't like to be forced to do things. If you put pressure on them, you'll get their backs up - even when they know they're in the wrong. But something has to be done, and it has to be done now. Otherwise, before long, we'll see Ayutthaya destroyed for the third time.